September 19th, 2012
Quick, it’s berry season, get in as many as you can! This season really reminds me of being a littly at the bottom of nanny seaside’s garden, packing as many plump berries as I could fit into my already full, hamster-like, stained pink cheeks. There was then the added pleasure of rubbing the fruit over my lips to make lipstick. Heaven. I’d like to have done that over in the blackberry bushes in Hackney Marshes, there were literally 1000’s of them, ripe for the picking.
I am playing with berries in every way I can this week; freezing*, jamming, sorbet-ing, purée-ing, juicing, staining (my face) : anything to keep them in my life for a little while longer. Best though, when the light is lowering and that brings a chill is a good hearty, berry crumble or a slab of berry juicy pudding. Or both.
One of my favourite people in the world makes a to-die-for Blueberry buckle; this is like the US version of the cobbler but rather than making a floury batter topping over the fruit, the mix is made then the fruit stirred in, with a buttery oat layer scattered to finish. The result is a lovely combination of doughy, juicy sponge with a crunchier, crumble crust.
He uses a recipe by Martha Stewart with a strudel topping plus extra zest, I have tweaked this slightly by adding an extra egg to the main mix, nuts and oats to give more crunch. You can obviously try any fruit you wish but personally, the tart little blackberry is a winner for me.
*Freezing and then making the blackberry ice cream cake by Nigel Slater in September’s Observer Food Monthly is a great way to save berries and use them later, with minimal effort.